Shopping Tokyo

 Shopping in Tokyo

 

     Tokyo offers the most amazing shopping in possibly the world, because many cultures are represented. You’ll find Western and Asian merchandise and brands, as well as ancient crafts forms and items rarely found elsewhere. The wealth of visual stimulation is amazing, as are the prices. But never mind, we came here to stare at everything. And to learn a little.

     Cultural values are often hidden in the merchandise. For example, in post-WWII Japan, new and shiny is better, so old or used merchandise has little value. You can buy such items at temple sales all over the country. Novelty is important, as is brand name and gift wrap per presentation. Even a birthday card will be presented with a bow and much fanfare.

     Wacky inventions and gadgets are much appreciated. In fact, you can buy a book about absurd Japanese inventions. They may not be absurd to a Japanese person, but to western sensibilities, they may be hilarious.

     Local style may be trend setting or kitschy—who could guess that this is the home of Hello, Kitty?  I’ve been intrigued by those animated hamsters for years—anime and illustrated novels influence shopping style and merchandise all over Asia.

     Architecture is also an important part of the Tokyo shopping experience. Many of the stores in Tokyo are mini-museums, built by the biggest names in international style. Tokyo boutiques tend to be showcases for both the brand and the architect. (See Omotesando below).

     Department stores are very complete; most have grocery stores as well as many restaurants on premises. They have crafts departments, souvenir departments and various designer and local brands.

      Certainly local culture insists that designer goods be the real deal, not faux. No one here wants or ever buys a copy bag. All hail the Vuitton tote… and the Chanel double C’s.

     Prices are a little less when you get outside of Tokyo; condsider shopping at Dollar Stores and temple sales if you are looking for affordable thrills.

Japanese Brands

    We’re all familiar with the biggest names in Japanese style and ready to wear since most of them show in Paris and have stores all over the world—Kenzo, Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, etc.

     Much of the merchandise I have found attractive in Tokyo is from brands that do not have distribution outside the country or are local phenoms. The department stores are a good place to prowl for new favorites.

     Please note that Harajuku Lovers is a U.S. brand.

Tokyo Shopping Neighborhoods

(in alphabetical order)

Akihabara: This is the electronics district of Tokyo, it is also the home of many manga shops and even the infamous ‘maid cafes’. There are plenty of places to eat; you may want to spend a whole day exploring this district, testing gadgets. This is one of the most crowded parts of Tokyo on weekends.

Asakusa: Not to be confused with Akasaka, this district is near Ueno and Akhiabara, has a famous shrine and is included on most official tours of the city. The pathway to the shrine
(Sensoji Temple) is lined with very cute shops - Nakamise Shopping Street. There are some museums here as well as a chance to get the feel of old Edo.

Ginza: If Tokyo had a ‘downtown’, this would be it for shoppers. Ginza is an internationally known street address and is home to many department stores and brand name boutiques. I find the crossroads of the 4-Chome to be the center of the shopping world; this is sometimes referred to as Yonchome Crossing. It’s also a five minute walk to the Peninsula Hotel.

Harajuku: This popular teen-tween shopping destination has become an icon through brands such as Harajuku Lovers (a U.S. brand) and exposure to a specific style of over-dressing that is popularized in the stores here. Like pornography, you’ll know it when you see it. On week-ends, you’ll see the girls out en masse; ask if you can take their pictures—they are usually thrilled. The best street in Tokyo for shopping or browsing or absorbing the culture is Takeshita Dori, right near Harajuku Station.

Kanda: District known for second -hand books, most of which are in Japanese. A portion of this district is devoted to second-hand musical instruments.

Kappabashi: The district that sells cooking utensils as well as wax models of foodstuffs used in displays in local restaurants.

Omotesando: Adjacent to Harajuku, this upmarket shopping street has branches of many of the big name designer boutiques and is often known for the architectural styles of the stores.

Roppongi: Big designer shopping district near Akasaka and the diplomatic center of town as well as a district used by most expats… and known for several museums. There is a shopping development here called Tokyo Midtown that abuts the subway station—this is just a clever name, do not think of Roppongi as midtown Tokyo.

Shibuya: An upmarket area next to Harajuku and Omotesando, known for department stores as well as the famed statue of a dog who came to the Shibuya Station daily to wait for his master, not knowing that the master had died.

Shinjuku: Bright lights, big crowds, many chain stores and lotsa action for young people and those who buy vinyl at the big music stores.  Large and major train station makes this the center of the world for many; there are numerous hotels in this area as well.

Tsukiji: Home of the famous fish market; not far from Ginza.

Ueno: My motto: ‘Ueno is bueno” – this is a street market and hopping neighborhood for mostly western goods, after 11AM. There are gardens, cherry blosssoms and museums here, but I come for the Ameyoko Market, which developed during World War II.

Shopping Hours

     Many stores open at 11AM and close at 8 or 9pm; some stores open earlier—but always check or you could be out in the cherry blossoms. Many people like to arrive at a department store right before it opens to see the opening ceremonies, which include a lot of people bowing to you in their cute uniforms.

     Shopping on weekends is a national event, so stores are crowded then.

Must-Do Shopping Ops of Tokyo

    You may be over-whelmed as you contemplate shopping adventures in Tokyo or you may think that Ginza is the ultimate shopping destination. Hey, wait! Because this is a city of small towns, you can easily handle it all with a short list of destinations. This is my personal must-do list:

·         Tsukiji Fish Market: There is a rumor that this market will close and re-locate, but until then make it a point to use jetlag in your favor and get to this market around 6AM for a look-see and a sushi breakfast. The famed Tuna Auctions now require a ticket (get in line at 4AM) but you can walk around and take gobs of photos, eat the most amazing sushi of your life and shop at a few stalls that sell fishy souvenirs. Don’t make the mistake that we did... Check before you leave the hotel to make sure it isn’t a Japanese holiday. The market could be closed.

·         Ginza 4: This is the heart of Ginza, the crossroads of various department stores and local chains. If you walk toward the 1 chome you can find Itoya, a must- see craft and papergoods store; on the far side of the 4-chome crossroads there’s a Uniqlo; don’t miss the department stores here as well—they’re great for local goods/brands and for lunch. Look at the Wako Clock Tower to know where you are—Wako is the Bergdorf Goodman of Tokyo.

·         Takeshita Dori: The most adorable pedestrian street through the heart of Harajuku where you can see the small boutiques and follow a route to the larger trendy stores as well as the high end shopping portion of Omotesando.

·         Omotesando: Wide avenue with designer shops on both sides – a good place to stroll to enjoy the architecture and window shopping of an upscale Tokyo neighborhood. I like to come on Sundays. Note that most stores here open at 11AM.

·         Takashimaya Shinjuku: This is a nice department store made nicer by the fact that within the same building, there is a branch of Tokyu Hands, a crafts and gadgets and novelty and gifts store.

·         Ueno/Ameyoko: This street market is dull and boring in the mornings, so get here around lunch time for a look at real people doing their shopping. Walk in the pedestrian lanes and visit the stalls and small shops for foodstuffs, souvenirs, trendy gifts and much Hello Kitty merchandise. There are a couple of shops devoted to vintage Louis Vuitton bags. Prices for new LV bags have risen about 13% in recent months, so "vintage" has never made more sense.

Local Heroes

Oriental Bazaar

9 Jingumae 5-chome, Shibuya-ku, Closed Thursday

     This store has changed a lot since I have been shopping here, but you’ll find it a somewhat modern version of a TT (tourist trap) that sells everything from kimonos to woodblocks to fancy souvenirs. Come here on your stroll around the ‘hood; this is near Harajuku. I bought some small bonsai growing kits for gifts.

Hayashi Kimono

International Arcade, 2-1-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku

     One of the most famous kimono dealers in Tokyo, with kimono for both men and women. Much of the merchandise is touristy; I didn’t see anything to swoon for, but this is a good source for basics.

     I usually buy kimono in Kyoto or at the street vendor near Harajuku who hangs out on Sundays at the corner of Meiji-Dori and Omotesando; my budget for a used kimono is $25. I once got a great kimono in the used kimono department of one of the famous Ginza department stores; all department stores have kimono departments.

Shibuya 109

     This is is an entire building of in the mode shops, particularly popular with local teens and tweens. There are actually two different buildings, the second one is called 109-2. There are restaurants on the 8^th floor.

Uniqlo

Branches all over town and in some department stores, also note Ginza 5-7-7. There’s a branch at Narita in Terminal 1, 4^th floor.

     Prices are lower in Japan than many places in the world, but this brand is known for offering fashion values. This is something like The Gap of Japan, but the brand has international scope. Their thermal line is soft and cuddly and perfect for layering in wintertime. The brand is expanding into the US with locations in New York and San Francisco.

Tokyu Hands

12-18 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku

This is one of my favorite stores in all of Japan, although note that the various branches are different. The original flagship (address above) is the best one, but the one in Shinjuku is easy to get to and modern and new. The store is a department store of color and gadgets and fun merchandise that you’ve probably never seen elsewhere. I also like the location of the flagship in Shibuya; you can stroll around a little bit and also grab a burger nearby at Freshness Burger.

Snack & Shop

     Grabbing s bite while you’re out shopping is never hard in Japan, although sticking to an under $10 for lunch budget can be a challenge. We sometimes get prepared foods from the department stores that have incredible grocery stores and eat a picnic; there’s also plenty of fast food around. Noodle shops sometimes have a touchscreen outside; make your selection, grab the ticket and go inside. Your order will be served within minutes.

     Most department stores have restaurants and/or food courts. If you can’t read the menu, remember that most restaurants have plastic models of the food…or you can point to what someone else is eating.

Next stop: Kyoto

   

Tokyo

Getting There 

     As the capital of Japan, Tokyo is easily reached from major international cities. Tokyo’s main airport, Narita (NRT), is a hub for much Asia-Pacific travel so it is not unusual to fly to Tokyo to change to an on-going flight, whether domestic or international.

    Personally, I’ve been to Narita airport many times without ever going into Tokyo. The transfer from Narita to town is indeed a rite of passage and a serious statement that you are committed to the idea. Besides, the shopping at Narita (home of United and other international airlines) will keep you occupied for hours. I almost missed my connecting flight to San Francisco because I was buying watches for $10 each….

     If you are travelling to Tokyo from elsewhere in Asia, you may be able to use Haneda airport (HND), which is closer to downtown than Narita. Haneda recently began receiving international flights, so you can actually make this choice in coming from the U.S.

Getting There, Part 2

     Getting to Narita isn’t quite the same as getting to Tokyo, so hold on to your obi, you’ve got another two hours or so to go. Unless you are really rich (and who is these days?), you do not want to take a taxi.

     First off, Narita is some 50 miles east of Tokyo and you have the problem of the infamous Tokyo traffic. Most people figure at least two hours of drive time between central Tokyo and Narita. Depending on what part of Tokyo you are headed to helps decide if you should take a bus or a train into town. Trains usually make it to their main station in 90 minutes (from Terminal 2 of Narita), but then you have to get through the train station and transfer to your hotel.

     There are bus services and train services from Narita to Tokyo; some of them are faster than others, some are faster depending on the traffic/ time of day. Some are more plush than others; obviously, some are more expensive than others.

    Liz and I took the bus (Friendly Bus) which was easy to find, easy to use and very comfortable. The kiosk for buying tickets was right inside the air terminal; we were told to stand at a specific bay (bus stop) and voila, a bus arrived and whisked us directly to our hotel. Yes, there are bathrooms on the bus. Announcements are in Japanese and in English.

     Expect to pay about $40 per person for your train or bus transfer. A taxi into town will cost $200 or more.

  

Getting Around Tokyo

    Once you have recovered from your flight and the stress of actually getting to your hotel from the airport, you will find getting around Tokyo is like a giant game or puzzle. It is not very hard, but it does take patience, practice and attention to detail. Most important rule of all: never leave your hotel without a taxi card so that you can get back to the hotel.

WALK: If at all possible, pick a hotel that is walking distance to something you want to see. Liz and I stayed in the Peninsula Hotel which was wonderful in itself, but its location was also a serious part of the equation—you could walk to many places and even dash across the street for a burger (Freshness Burger)…or to the yakatori stands under the train tracks.

TAXIS: There are plenty of taxis in Tokyo (except in rush hour or when it’s raining); they are expensive, but worth doing at least once if only for the fun of it. Do not venture out unless you are totally prepared with a map, a taxi card and your destination printed out in Japanese. That said, enjoy the white gloves, fancy and very clean cars, automatic swinging doors and good manners. Tokyo traffic is notorious – so expect a short dash anywhere to cost about $20. It is unlikely that a driver will cheat you, but he may get lost—which will run up your fare. (Everyone gets lost in Tokyo; this is to be expected and accepted.) Also, there are surcharges, extra charges and cultural oddities…plus all that traffic.  Taxi drivers do not usually speak, or read, English. You do not tip. It’s difficult to get a taxi during rush hour in the morning or late afternoon; it’s equally difficult to get a taxi around midnight when the trains shut down.

TRAINS:  There is a large train system (above and underground) that goes just about everywhere you want to go; yes, it is marked in English.  There are several train lines (above ground) as well as subway lines; there is a color coded system to help you use the system and connect.

     Trains have digital signs that are written in English and Kanji and will announce the upcoming stop in English and Japanese on the overhead speaker system. If you are new in town, try a simple route until you warm up and gain confidence.

     Tokyo's most prominent train line is the JR Yamanote Line, a loop line which connects Tokyo's multiple city centers. The city's 13 subway lines are operated by two companies and run largely inside the Yamanote circle and the areas around Ginza and Shitamachi, but if you’re willing to walk a few blocks, the JR will take you almost any place you want to go.

     A whole variety of day passes is available for the Tokyo area, however, most of them are overpriced and/or not very practical because they do not cover all of Tokyo's train and subway lines. Consequently, single tickets or prepaid cards usually come cheaper, especially if you plan your city sightseeing in a geographically wise way.

     Prepaid IC cards are generally the recommended way to get around Tokyo. Prepaid cards don't give you any discounts over single tickets, but they provide convenience as you can ride virtually any train or bus in Tokyo with just a simple swipe over a card reader. They can also be used to make quick purchases at a constantly increasing number of shops in Tokyo (and across the country).Two types of IC cards are available for purchase in the city: Suica cards at JR stations and Pasmo cards at non-JR stations.

 The Lay of the Land

 

     Tokyo is a very large city, dominating a rather small country. Located to the eastern center of an island country, Tokyo is not far from water, but isolated enough to be protected from the sea.

     There is no specific downtown—there are so many districts that you will always need a bi-lingual map. It helps to study the map once you know where your hotel is located so you can get a feel for where the major districts are in relationship to your hotel.

     The best way to learn the basics of Tokyo geography is to look at a subway map – find one online www.tokyometro.jp. This map may at first just seem like a maze of colors and spaghetti, but it also demonstrates the box like structure of the city and the way the various parts interconnect. Find your hotel and work to get to destinations without having to change lines.

     Because there are so many subway lines, a specific district may be served by many lines with odd (to you) station names. However, there is invariably one station in that area that bears the name of the area, such as Ginza, Ueno or Akihabara. These will help you, uh, get oriented. Once you are in the station and looking to exit, various stairwells will be marked with directions or the chome (block) so that if you know you want to go to Ginza 4 chome, you can look for the proper exit which enables you to exit exactly where you want to be.

About Directions

          Understand that most of Tokyo was destroyed in World War II; buildings take on street addresses from when they are built, so the numbers do not go in order. It’s not unheard of for one block to have buildings that range in age over a period of 500 years. The oldest building will have the lowest street number; the newest, the highest. But only Google Maps can know what’s what.

     For this reason, almost every store business card and web site will provide a map. Taxis with GPS can sometimes spend less time getting lost, but Lost in Tokyo is a general condition. Very few people you stop on the street to help with directions will speak English adequately. Soooooo:

·         The part of the street address that ends with ‘ku’ (per above) tells you the prefecture;

·         The part of the address marked with ‘chome’ (two syllable word) indicates the block. The best known chomes are Ginza, 1-9. Don’t you wish Fifth Avenue was divided up like this? In Tokyo, the chome will be crucial to getting where you want to go.

     Two other descriptive words that are good to know, and are often woven into directions are bashi  (bridge) and torii  (gate).

     Directions will also be easier to follow if you learn to count to five in Japanese, because so many subway stops and addresses have the chome in English letter but in Japanese words, such as ni ,ishi, or san—one, two, three.